Thursday 16 April 2009

Patagonia













I fulfilled a dream I had as a kid last month when I visited Patagonia. I had often heard and dreamed about the land that seemed and sounded so far away and when I eventually got there, I felt like I was at the end of the world. you know, the edge where you fall off into the empty space.

I had spent the previous four days in Santiago, a city I grew to love because it lacked the pretentiousness of BA and had some very charming gardens. Built by the Spaniards when they conquered Chile back in the day, the wide avenues and spanish block-like homes reminded of a cross between the uber-chicness of buenos aires architecture and the frozen-in-time style of havana. The hostel I stayed in Santiago was filled with backpackers from all over the world and it brought back memories from backpacking in Europe in 2003 and southeast asia in 2005. I met people from all over the world then and now but the trip is never complete without the super surfer dude from sydney who has been traveling by bus around the world for like 2.5 years. At that point traveling is not a pleasure or leisure, traveling is a way of life or a vocation.

Anyway, everyone seemed excited whenever my friend and I mentioned that we were headed down south, and that only served to increase my excitement...and I was not dissappointed. we flew into punta areas - the lowest town with a commercial airport in the southern hemishere - and the first thing I noticed was that the air felt crisp and fresh. we jumped in a van and drove straight to the penguin colony in Seno Otway so that we copuld turn around after a fewhours and do the 4 hour drive back to puerto natales. There werent too many penguins left since it was fall and most had began the migration to brazil and other warmer weathers. But there were about a hundred and I was able to do my photography.
Next stop was Puerto Natales the base town from where we went to torres del paine national park. the mountains were incredible with different and visible rock formation and salt mineral lakes at the base. we saw huanacas, condors and other wildlife. then proceed to do a trek to a mini glacier.
The following day which turned out to be a rainy day, we did a boat cruise ...ok..I just decided I will post the itinerary for the trip here -
"Torres del Paine and Glaciers / 4 days - 3 nightsItinerary :Day 1: Punta Arenas - Puerto NatalesReception at the Punta Arenas(We recommend first flight in the morning). Transfer to our offices. Depart to Puerto Natales at 16:00 hrs.(249 km / 03 hours of trip) city visiting in the way Seno Otway Penguin Colony. Arrival at 22:00 hrs more or less to the city of Puerto Natales. Lodging.Day 2: Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine National ParkBreakfast . At 7:30 am departure from your hotel to begin the full day excursion that will drive us to imposing Cave of the Milodon (Natural Monument) and later to Torres del Paine National Park where we will have a nice panoramic view of "Paine" Mountain Range as welcome. Also we will admire lakes as "Sarmiento" ,"Nordenskjold", and "Pehoe". Its "fauna" will be present through "huanacos", "foxes" among others and big variety of birds of easy observation during the trip. A short trek will take us to a big waterfall called "Salto Grande" which is part of park hidrographical net. Later ,retaking the main way, it access to CONAF central office, to continue to Lake Grey , where after to walk ( 30 minutes) through a "millenium" forest we will get to its beach to admire a great number leading offs floes from glacier. A "box lunch" is included in the service. At approximately 7:30 pm return to Puerto Natales. Lodging.Day 3: Puerto Natales - Sailing to Glaciers - Punta ArenasBreakfast. At 7:40 am transfer from your hotel to local pier. At 8:00 departure of maritimal excursión to "Balmaceda and Serrano" Glaciers. This sailing lasts about 4 hours to "Bernardo O´Higgins" National Park where . During the trip we will be able to observe the first local cattle ranches, "cormorants" and "sea lions" colonies , beech forests waterfalls and cliffs , the perfect home of majestic "condor". Once in the park we will get to "Monte Balmaceda" that show us from its eastern slope the "glacier" of the same name. Later we will approach land on "Puerto Toro" docking area , from where we will start a short trek to "Serrano" Glacier crossing a native forest and the lake's shore. A "box lunch" type or lunch in "Perales" ranch is included .At approximately at 5:00 pm return to Puerto Natales city. At 18:30 will board the public intercity bus to Punta Arenas city.. Reception at bus station and transportation to hotel.Lodging. Day 4: Punta Arenas"

Basically saw all the aformentioned wildlife and did some great photography. THen after that we decided to cross over into Argentina and see Periton Francesco Moreno - one of the largest glaciers in the patagonia named after an expert glacier scientist (or something like that). It took some convincing to decide to go but the trip was very much well worth it. I certainly enjoyed

Highlights of the trip:










  • forgetting my passport on route to argentina and not being able to cross over
  • going back to hostel and watching Ms. Doubtfire in spanish
  • going back the next day and having it be sunny and amazing
  • taking some really good photos
  • eating the best seabass I have ever had in my life at angelica's in puerto natales
  • crossing over border 4 times and getting out each time to register
  • taking walks in the parks and museums in santiago
  • going up the tram and down the cable car in santiago
  • improving my zero spanish
  • washing up in showers made for some the size of frodo baggins
  • traveling with one of my closest friends
  • getting closure

2 comments:

Buki said...

Your pics are wonderful, looked through the old ones too and especially liked the ones you did on ibadan and ekiti.....

Buki said...

Hi Malik,

Hope you are good?

WISHING YOU A BOUNTIFUL 2011!

Take Care.